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Flashback into the Riyadh of the 70's Print E-mail
By Ali Shah | Saudi Life
Saturday, 26 June 2010 18:39
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Typical street in the 60s

This is how a street in a not-so-rich locality looked like in Riyadh in 1960-61

Varied forms of transport

Donkeys, cars, carts

A main road

Dusty roads marked the city.

Market place

Beautiful old cars

Environment friendly?

Donkey carts in use back then.

Shopping

Buying grocery for your home?

Gas station

A simple gasoline/petrol station

Mansion

A large villa in one of the posh localities

Traveling back in time

We travel back into the Riyadh of yesterday...

NOT so long ago, I was 5-years-old. It was 1974. We lived in a large villa in Murabba, Riyadh, behind the first (now old) passport office. On a busy day, one could see several Yemenis waiting outside the passport office in a line that almost reached the road.

Riyadh, in those days, was a small city and Murabba (square) was the center point, where many royals too lived. The main road in Murabba was Washem road. I can say it was probably the only main road then. It's also the road that saw Riyadh's first flyover.

It was built right in front my eyes. Parallel to our residential area and across the Wahsem road was a road that led to the main shopping areas – Al-Wazir, Al-Khazzan and Al-Batha. Those were "The Olaya" and "Sulaymania" during that time.

This was the Riyadh I grew up in.

Our villa was three stories high with two gardens, a huge backyard, four servant quarters, and was surrounded by nine big trees. The rent was SR15,000 per year. It remained that much for years until one day it became SR60,000 per year. On the right, was the villa of Sheikh Abdul Razzaq Al-Mishal. I had no idea what he did, but I knew he was a big man. On our left, resided Ammo Abdullah (that's how we called him – Uncle Abdullah) and his eight kids of all sizes. He drove a taxi -- a yellow Datsun. Opposite our villa was Ammo Abdul Aziz. He was a TV presenter who did children's shows. We watched him every other day on TV that had an antenna like the horns of a moose.

It was 1974. My little brother was just born and the celebrations were on. I was the excited older brother sharing the news with my buddies, the kids of Ammo Abdullah. We would run around the neighborhood, bother the Yemenis (who would play with us not minding our teasing), and chase cats, all in little white thobes. Sheikh Abdul Razzaq's wife would send her maid every day to ask my mother to visit her and bring me along.

Her older daughters and sons would pamper me and she would gift me a lot of cakes. I was their favorite! The eldest son, Shehab, would tell me "Ali, ya Shaytan Anta!" (Ali, what a brat you are!).

That was because I would take out air from the tires of his new car every other day. He would shout, "Lesh ya Ali, Lesh?!!" (Why O Ali, Why?!). But he would just smile my mischief away. No one seemed to mind the little brats of Murabba. And I was one of the prime ones.

When we faced water shortage, my father would send his man – Shamsuddin, a Kashmiri – to fetch a water tanker. The water tank would be brought on a donkey cart owned by a Yemeni. To think, it seems like I lived in a different century! But this is something I saw and remember.

To make a telephone call to his mother, my father would have to first make a booking. The operator would call back in a week's time to give the line. My father would tell me that when he came in the 1960s, it would take a month or more. A week's wait was new found luxury back then!

Every Friday, we would go to King Faisal's mosque. He would come there with only two guards. He was tall, graceful and kind. A man, from whose eyes compassion flowed. A man, who prayed so deep and beautifully that you would feel as if he had a special relationship with Allah (and Allah knows best).

When he prayed for rain, it would rain the same day, if not that same moment! He would wave as he would leave in his car to a nation that absolutely loved and adored him.

I remember that sad night when there was only recitation of the Qur'an on TV. We heard sirens all around us. My mother asked Shamsuddin to go out and check. He came back crying. He broke down. "Today, Riyadh has been orphaned," he said. "Today, King

Faisal left us." All of Riyadh wept. The year was 1975. I too wept. And I still get tears when I remember those moments. King Faisal left us so suddenly, without warning, illness or signs of death. King Faisal's office and court was close to our place too.

I was hurt for many years until I read the Qur'an and hoped in my heart that he was Insha Allah in a better place. Malik Faisal, may Allah bless you and exalt you to a high station! We loved you and we still love you.

I remember the powerful Prince Fahd (the late king), the majestic Prince Abdullah (present king), and the handsome Prince Sultan all weeping their hearts out when King Faisal died. King Faisal's doctors were family friends and what they told us was heartbreaking!

Riyadh grew up with me. I lived in that house till I turned 17. The Olaya district I live in today was our picnic spot then. The Shehab who I used to tease so much is now a director at the Saudi Chamber of Commerce. I don't know where others went. I hope they read this and find me one day.

Life was simple. As time passed, more people started coming to Saudi Arabia. The passport office was removed from there. We too left that villa. Huge buildings started popping up. There were new policies, ideas and rules. I had to leave for higher studies. For 10 years, from 1987-97, I lived abroad to study and discover life in other countries. My brother followed me. My parents moved into an apartment. My aunts and uncles migrated to America. Life had all of a sudden changed.

I would come back every year to a bigger Riyadh marked by new buildings, roads and neighborhoods. In my 40 years of life, I have seen centuries of work accomplished within decades here.

There are many more tales of Riyadh that I could tell, and I will tell Insha Allah. I will disclose about the Mystical Ghabbash, an Abyssinian man who would walk barefoot to the mosque in scorching sun. I will tell you about the beautiful peacock that sat on a princess's palace roof and about my 30 cats and 200 pigeons. I will also tell you about the beautiful white horse of a prince that would dance for me. Such memories cannot be forgotten

And Riyadh, I have every right over you. We, after all, grew up together.

 

Comments  

+4 Milli 2010-06-27 10:03 #
Very heart touching blog, this is the first blog I read about Riyadh which speaks heart out. Very emotional and gripping wrtitng. Keep it up. We would like to read more from you.
Best of luck.
Milli
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+2 rusty bucket 2010-06-27 10:53 #
I also remember those days, and of King Feisal. In your next installment do remember to include the Old (first) Riyadh airport which was a simple Quantas Hut where passengers entered from the street at one end and exited onto the aircraft at the other. The Kingdom may have been a much less sophisticated place then but had a timeless, classical atmosphere and a joy to work in. Even today it brings a tear to my eye and a heavy heart wnen I remember those wonderful days with wonderful, genuine people. As one old man told me even back then "before, we had no money but were happier - now we have money but are unhappy". Wise words indeed and the "unhappiness" has increased proportionately . Whilst the present generation enjoy the conveniences of modern life without a thought of the past they have also lost so much of a quality lifestyle that is sadly fast disappearing.
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0 sami 2010-06-27 11:35 #
isnt that the same for all the cities? every city grows up the same way, doesn't it? only some grow faster than the others.
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+1 Ali Shah 2010-06-27 12:11 #
Thank you Milli, God bless you.At one time, this was a city of people with hearts and not gold cards and expatriate issues nor saudization..lol.

Rusty ( Sir, I would not call you this name if I KNEW your name! But it is your humbleness that has caused you to give yourself this nickname, I would address you differently)..true what you have said..not much money, simpler life .. and a lot of joy. When little things meant so much. Not for a minute do we forget a life so beautiful in these days of luxury..

Sami: No dear friend, every city does not grow or come to be, like Riyadh. I cannot compare development in ANY country to development in KSA. Especially Riyadh. I am sure that people who have been here, people who have seen Riyadh in its infancy in THEIR youth , like Mr. Rusty , will agree. Also, consider the huge change in life and perceptions of the inhabitants of this city.Few countries have experienced such boom in wealth, few countries house so many different nations in this manner, and few countries have had to grow this fast.
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+2 Ali Shah 2010-06-27 12:41 #
Note to Editor:
You, my friend, are an AMAZING person! Where did you get these PICTURES??? YOU EVEN GOT THE DONKEY CARTS!!! WOW! It is like a memory photographed! Great WORK!
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+1 Sameera 2010-06-27 14:41 #
Although I grew up in Jeddah I can completely relate to this amazing flashback of life in Saudi Arabia. Those were definitely the good old days of simplicity and genuine brotherhood which no riches can bring back.
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0 rusty bucket 2010-06-27 15:10 #
ah Jidda...Bride of the Red Sea - how much I loved you. My first night there was at the Middle East Hotel on King AbdulAziz Street, an adobe construction that had seen better times and has probably long since gone. Opening the simple wooden lattice windows next morning with the warm sun on my face I was greeted by the many wonderful sounds, sights and smells of the souk around me and was immediately captivated. I moved to Madain Fahd and never tired of hearing the call to prayer as it cut through the crisp, clear morning air. Oh dear people of Jidda (and indeed all cities and towns throughout the Kingdom)lovingl y preserve and treasure what you still have left, for once gone, it can never be replaced.
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0 Sameera 2010-06-28 09:46 #
Oh those wooden windows we had those in Madina, in the 'Rabaat' our ancestors had built for pilgrims to come and stay for free. It was so close to the Prophet's mosque that many a times the lines of people exceeded the building during prayer times and my parents prayed from our room. Every city was our home, every saudi our friend what a loss to modernisation!
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0 Ali Shah 2010-06-28 13:15 #
It is not really modernaization.. it is material advancement and mental degeneration.. :)
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0 Umm Saddaqah 2010-06-29 15:30 #
As salaamu alaikum wa rahmatullah. This was such a beautiful and poetic expression of how life was in Riyadh. I am an expat who lives in Ha'il but I can imagine the changes that have taken place over the years. Thank you for writing this. I look forward to reading much more.
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0 Ali Shah 2010-06-30 19:45 #
Thank you very much Umm Saddaqah... Allah bless you. Inshallah you will see and read many nice things on Saudi Life. We are curious about Hail .. Would love to know more about the city.
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0 Brett Cook 2010-09-10 07:20 #
Brett Cook 10-9-2010
I lived in Riyadh in the early 70's sadly i have never been back since! You have taken me down memory lane of a happy time, King Feisal was a wonderful man, on a Friday my brother, sister and my self would stand at the back of our villa and wave to king Feisal on his way home from the Mosque, he often waved back to us. A great man with time for every one.
I remember there being only 2 super markets.(Riyadh super market and Spinnies super market) we would buy all our veg from the souk and many other items from the souks, and all the little Yemeni basket boys to carry your shopping.
Happy days and fond memories of a wonderful and beautiful country.
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0 Se Wen 2010-09-20 14:50 #
Its so painful to get into the memory lane and seeing what left behind and moving ahead with a heavy heart missing everything, everyone....

Waiting to hear more from you....
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0 Yaser 2010-11-24 15:41 #
Merhaba Ali Shah,

It was good to read your blog... brought back a lot of memories of Riyadh in the 70s. Like you i also spent my childhood in Riyadh(1969-1980)and infact was born there as well, although i am a Pakistani. And same as you i used to live in a villa with my parents in Murraba not far from the Passport Office. I went back to Pakistan in 1980 and never got to see Riyadh again after that. However i will hopefully be travelling to Riyadh after a span of 30 years now and would love to visit Murraba and old Riyadh streets again. I have been trying over the past many months to figure out where i used to live using Google Earth and other websites, however there is very little available on the Riyadh city of 70s and the Murabba area has changed so much over the years that i cant recognise any of the roads and buildings in Murraba. I think i can figure out where i lived if someone can help me pinpoint where the old passport office, fish market (Souk Assamak) and International Book store used to be in Murabba. If you are on Google maps or Earth, can you send me the co-ordinates or placemarks of where these buidings used to be in the 70s? I would appreciate your help.

Do write more on your blog about Riyadh with maybe pictures of old and new areas side by side. Also it would be appropriate to acknowledge where you got the pictures from. Keep up the great work and hope to hear back from you.

Regards
Yaser
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0 Usman 2010-12-08 09:07 #
Riyadh does bring alot of memories back;these days Iam here on business visit visa ,though born,lived here all my life but left in 2005 for family-personal reason. ONLY thing is that atleast with such a rich life track record relevent authorties should issue permanent visas with multiple entry if not citizenship-which I suppose is rightly deserved after forty plus years!Riyadh we still love you and you are part of our life.
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0 Noorah 2011-05-22 16:52 #
Assalamu Alaikum.

I absolutely LOVED this article. It was very touching. Please do tell us all your stories. Would love to hear them, especially the tale of the peacock on the Princess's roof.

Keep ém coming!!..:)
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